How to fix Christmas Tree Lights

Things You'll Need

• Burned out Christmas lights
• Replacement Christmas light bulbs

Step One

Remove the burned-out Christmas light bulb from its socket. Do this by carefully applying upward pressure on the plastic base just below the glass bulb. It helps to have fingernails when doing this. Try not to pull on the glass bulb.

Step Two

Once the old bulb has been removed, compare its base with that of the replacement bulb. If it matches, then you should have no problem easily just inserting the new bulb into the socket. If the bases do not match, then you will need to remove both bulbs from their sockets and swap them.

Step Three

You will probably need to straighten the wires so that they will fit into the holes of the socket.

To remove a Christmas light from its socket, find the two copper wires at the base of the bulb. Push both wires downward so that if the tip of the bulb is pointing at the ceiling, then the wires will point towards the floor. Firmly pull upward on the glass bulb and it should separate from the base. Do the same thing with the replacement bulb.

Step Four

With both copper wires from the new bulb pointing straight down, insert the new bulb into the old bulb's socket and try to align the copper wires with the two holes at the bottom of the base. Once the wires have been inserted, press the bulb completely down into the base. Push both wires upward so that they follow the groove on each side of the bulb base. Now they should be facing the same direction as the tip of the glass bulb. Insert this new arrangement into the empty light socket and the bulb should illuminate!

Overall Tips & Warnings

• Be careful when working with electricity! If possible, wrap a small piece of masking tape around the base of the burned-out bulbs to mark them and them perform the bulb replacement with the Christmas lights unplugged.

How to trouble shoot Water Heaters

Things You'll Need

• Chlorine
• Garden Hoses And Attachments
• Thermometers
• Flashlight

Step One

Make sure the breaker hasn't tripped, if you have an electric unit and are not getting any hot water. Press the reset button on the thermostat inside the access panel if a tripped breaker isn't the problem.

Step Two

Suspect a buildup of sediments in the water-heater tank if the hot water is discolored or is taking a long time to replenish. If this is the case, you'll need to drain the tank completely and flush it with clean water.

Step Three

Check the water heater's temperature settings if you have noisy plumbing. It might be too hot, and the noise may be the result of steam building up in the pipes.

Step Four

Make sure you aren't running multiple appliances that use hot water - running the dishwasher and the washing machine will make your shower short and not so sweet.

Step Five

Notice whether the water smells like sulfur. Sometimes bacteria that live in the water get out of control. A good dose of chlorine will usually take care of the problem. (Consult your owner's manual for the recommended dosage.)

Step Six

Check the water temperature when the tank is full. Run hot water from the tap over a thermometer. It should be within 5 degrees of the thermostat setting. Replace the thermostat if there is a larger discrepancy.

How to fix a jammed Garbage Disposal

Things You'll Need

• Long-nose Pliers
• Short Broomstick
• 1/4-inch (6-mm) Allen (hex) Wrench

Step One

Turn the garbage disposal on and off quickly and check to see if it has power. If it hums, the power is on but the impeller is jammed. Move on to step 3. If it doesn't hum, it may have overheated and tripped a circuit breaker. Move on to step 2.

Step Two

Restore power to the machine. Most disposals have an overload switch that trips when the motor starts to overheat. To reset the switch, look for a small red button on the bottom of the housing, and if it's there, push it in (see A). If your disposal doesn't have an overload switch or the machine still won't run after you reset the switch, reset the circuit breaker that serves the disposal.

Step Three

Clear the jam from underneath. On many disposals, you can insert a 1/4-inch (6-mm) Allen (hex) wrench into the bottom of the housing and manually move the motor shaft and flywheel to dislodge the jam. If your disposal has an opening for an Allen (hex) wrench, insert the wrench and move it back and forth until the motor and flywheel turn freely.

Step Four

Clear the jam from above. Press the end of a short broomstick against one of the impellers, and jab in one direction and then the other until the jam breaks loose (see B).

Step Five

Remove the debris. Turn off the circuit breaker that controls the garbage disposal. Reach inside with a pair of long-nose pliers and pull out whatever jammed the machine.

Step Six

Turn on the cold water--this hardens any grease inside and helps the disposal chop it up--and run the disposal until all the remaining garbage is gone.

Overall Tips & Warnings

• Never use a chemical drain cleaner to try to clear debris from the garbage disposal. The caustic chemicals can damage gaskets and other parts.
• To avoid jams, keep the opening to your disposal covered with a rubber strainer when not in use.

How to fix a leaking roof

Things You'll Need

• Tri Polymer Sealant.
• Disposable paint brush or paint stir stick or similar stick to use as a putty knife.
• Ladder to reach roof.
• Possibly an ice pick or hammer and long nail.

Step One

Try to find the exact location of the drip or leak. This is best done by looking up from inside the attic when it's raining. If you are fortunate to see the leak, shove an ice pick up through so it may be seen from the roof side later on. The sealant you will apply will seal this hole so don't worry about making a hole in your roof. It's more important to find where the leak is.
Another way to find the leak is to run a garden sprinkler on the roof and try to get it to leak. The leak always stops when the rain stops then it is impossible to find it. Once you locate the leak, mark the location by shoving the ice pick up through the roof or drive long nail so it can be seen later when you get up on the roof.
This Tri Polymer Sealant can be applied in the rain but this is not advisable due to safety concerns of slipping off the roof. It can also be applied in freezing conditions. Once you have the leak located and marked it is best to wait for good weather before getting on the roof.

Step Two

Using a sturdy ladder you or a friend will need to get up on the roof and locate the ice pick or nail. Mark the location and go back down to remove the ice pick or nail. Go back up on the roof and spread the Tri Polymer Sealant around the area. It is clear and about the consistency of honey so it will run down into your nail hole and the hole that has been leaking. Since the sealant is clear it can be used on any color of roof without looking offensive like tar might.

Step Three

Altho Tri Polymer Sealant is indeed waterproof it's best if you wait a day or two before testing the leak again with the garden sprinkler.

Step Four

If you cannot accomplish this procedure yourself, hopefully you can find a handyman and explain to him/her how to do it. The key to the fix is the Tri Polymer Sealant. I have fixed many many roof leaks with this method.

Overall Tips & Warnings

• Tri Polymer Sealant is available from Ace Hardware and most all roofing material supplier warehouses. There are several different manufacturers but it's basically all the same stuff. Comes in quarts and gallons and in caulking tubes.
• Clean up with mineral spirits or naphtha
• The sealant is flammable when wet but not volatile so it's not explosive. Has an odor but it's not objectionable. It's very sticky so try not to get too much on yourself.

How to remove a fence post

Things You'll Need

• Shovels
• Bricks
• Concrete Blocks
• Measuring Tapes
  
• Heavy Piece Of Lumber
• Ropes
• Common Nails
• Hammers

Step One

Remove the dirt from around the post.

Step Two

Measure up about a foot from ground level and drive a nail halfway into each face of the post.

Step Three

Put a stack of bricks or concrete blocks at the edge of the area you dug out.

Step Four

Lay a heavy piece of lumber across the bricks - this will act as a lever to pull the post up out of the ground.

Step Five

Wrap a strong rope around the post under the nails (the nails will hold the rope in place).

Step Six

Tie the ends of the rope to the lever. Press down on the other end of the lever. You, and maybe another person, might have to stand on it.

Tips & Warnings

• Dig out more dirt if the post doesn't give. You might also try soaking the ground to loosen up the soil, but be aware of how messy this can get.
• If the lever isn't working, you may have to dig all the way around the concrete and use a truck or an ox to pull the entire thing out. If that's not possible, use a pick to break up the concrete and remove chunks manually until you can lever the post out.
• Be aware that a rotted post can come apart at any time. Be ready for the post to break out of the concrete.

How to strip wood finishes

Things You'll Need

• Putty knife or plastic scraper
• Denatured alcohol
• Paint brush
• Steel Wool
• Plastic sheet
  
• Eye protection (splash goggles)
• Lacquer thinner
• Wood stripper
• Rubber gloves

Step One

Set up your workstation in a well-ventilated area. Put down a plastic sheet or large piece of cardboard to keep your stripper and the old finish off your floor.

Step Two

Start by testing the finish to determine whether it is shellac or lacquer rather than varnish.

Step Three

Use both lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. Spread each on a small section of the surface, give them 15 to 20 seconds to work and then wipe the surface. A shellac finish will liquefy when denatured alcohol is applied, while a lacquer finish will come off with lacquer thinner. If either of these solvents removes your surface, you will know what kind of finish you're dealing with, and you won't need to use a chemical stripper. If the surface remains unchanged after your test, you have a varnish finish and will need to use a chemical stripper.

Using a Wood Stripper

Step One

Choose a wood stripper. These are readily available at your home store and come in both liquid and gel form. The gels work better on vertical surfaces (like table legs), while a liquid stripper can often get into crevices in a pattern better than a gel.

Step Two

Use an old paintbrush to spread stripper on a section of your furniture surface. Don't spread it over the whole surface, as strippers dry out and become hard to remove.

Step Three

Allow the stripper enough time to do its work (usually about 15 to 20 minutes, but follow the manufacturer's directions), and wait for the surface to bubble.

Step Four

Use a small putty knife or plastic scraper to carefully scrape the old finish off the furniture (the stripper will also soften the wood, so be careful not to gouge the surface). On stubborn finishes a second application of stripper may be necessary.

Step Five

Clean away any finish that is ingrained in the wood by soaking a piece of steel wool in stripper and rubbing it directly on the surface.

Step Six

Repeat the process on the next section of the piece of furniture.

Finishing Up

Step One

Neutralize the chemical stripper by cleaning the piece of furniture with the manufacturer's recommended chemical (usually naphtha gas or lacquer thinner). Dispose of the accumulated old finish and chemical stripper mess on the floor.

Step Two

Allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least overnight) before you stain or refinish your "new" piece of furniture.

The uninsured Generation

Health insurance is in the midst of a design shift toward greater financial risk for patients. Study estimates that nearly sixteen million people ages 19-64 were under insured in 2003. Under insured adults were more likely to forgo needed care than those with more adequate coverage and had rates of financial stress similar to those of the uninsured. Including adults uninsured during the year, 35 percent (sixty-one million) were under- or uninsured. These findings highlight the need for policy attention to insurance design that considers the adequacy of coverage.

Insurance companies have devised creative policies in order to attract these under insured adults Such plans include: options that can save money on insurance policies, reduce premiums, online insurance quoting services, and cash back on life insurance policies.

Insurance companies are also collaborating with corporate entities to devise the right corporate insurance plans for employers by offering attractive employee benefit packages.

How to plant your lawn from Sod

Things You'll Need

• Garden Hoses
• Lawn Rollers
• Level Head Rakes
• Potting Soil
  
• Shovels
• Old Kitchen Knife
• Cotton Strings
• Carts Or Wheelbarrows

Step One

Select the right type of grass for your area (see "eHow to Choose a Lawn Grass").

Step Two

Measure the square footage of your planting area to determine how much sod you'll need. Purchase fresh sod at a local nursery or garden center, or have it delivered from a local sod farm.

Step Three

Prepare and level the soil, as described in "eHow to Plant a Lawn." The final level should be an inch or two lower than grade to accommodate the thickness of the sod.

Step Four

Pick up the sod or arrange to have it delivered on the day you are ready to lay it. Inspect the sod carefully to make sure it hasn't dried out. Reject it if it has dried, curled or cracked edges, or yellowing foliage.

Step Five

Start laying the sod along a straight edge, such as a driveway or walk. To create a straight edge, stretch a string across the center of the lawn.

Step Six

Position the sod pieces so the ends butt up tightly against an edge or previously laid piece. Unroll the sod. Place edges as close as possible, but don't overlap them.

Step Seven

Stagger pieces as you move from row to row (as if you were laying brick) so the ends don't all line up.

Step Eight

Use an old kitchen knife to cut sod to fit around sprinklers or in odd-shaped areas.

Step Nine

Fill in any large spaces between pieces of sod with soil.

Step Ten

Push a water-filled roller (about a third full) over the entire area to make sure sod and soil are in good contact and to help level the area.

Step Eleven

Water thoroughly so the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches.

Step Twelve

Keep the seed bed moist (but not soggy) until sod roots knit with soil below. In hot weather, you may have to water more than once a day.

Tips & Warnings

• Lay the sod on dry soil to avoid a muddy mess.
• When laying sod, kneel on a piece of plywood so you don't disturb soil or damage sod, and use kneepads to keep your knees from getting sore.
• Laying sod is hard work. Enlist the help of friends, and use a wheelbarrow to cart pieces around.
• Keep pets and kids off your new lawn by enclosing it with stakes and string.
• Avoid letting sod dry out, whether it's stacked in a pile or already laid. Occasionally sprinkle with water from a handheld hose to keep it moist, and store pallets of sod in the shade.

How to start a new lawn by planting Seeds

Things You'll Need

• Topsoil and seeds

Step One

The first thing you need to do is prepare your lawn. This means that you need to get rid of any grass and/or weeds that may be there. There are a number of tools you can use for this including flat-bladed shovels and sod-cutters. Regardless of which tool you use, be sure to get the grass and/or weeds from their roots. If you do not get their roots, you are wasting your time.

Step Two

The next thing you need to do is have your topsoil chemically tested to see which type of grass you will need. There are a few tests that should be run, including figuring out the pH and the sodium adsorption rate, to name a couple. These tests will probably cost about thirty dollars or so, but it is well worth the investment. After all, who wants to go through the trouble of making a new lawn only to wake up one morning to a weed-infested, yellow lawn?

Step Three

The next step is to till. This includes buying or renting a tiller and breaking up all of the compacted topsoil of your soon-to-be lawn. Then, apply a starter fertilizer and compost to the topsoil. After adding the fertilizer and compost into the mix, it is important to till again. This will work the fertilizer and compost into the topsoil. Be sure that it is level, and if slanted, slanted away from your house so that your house does not flood from water run-off. If necessary, grab a rake and rake the topsoil to level the topsoil completely. You will then need to buy or rent a roller. This will level the topsoil completely. The main idea here is to ensure that the topsoil is COMPLETELY level.

Step Four

This is where you need to track down a seed spreader. If you think it is as simple as loading the seeds in the seed spreader and spreading them over your new lawn, think again. You will actually need to spread the seeds three or four times. After making three or four evenly stacked piles of seeds, load them one at a time and spread them evenly over your lawn. The key is to push the seed spreader in a different direction each time. A good way to do this, is to make four even piles of seeds and then to start in each of the four corners of your lawn. This will ensure that the seeds get evenly dispersed, which will ensure a full lawn. At this point, you should rake the topsoil lightly to make sure that the seeds are covered in topsoil.

Step Five

The next step is to use the roller again; but this time you need to make sure to take the water out of the drum. This is because you want to roll the lawn lightly. At this point, you are done planting. Now the only thing you need to do is water your new lawn several times every day. You need to water the lawn with just a light spray, though, because you do not want to flood your new lawn with too much water, or else it may just never be a lawn. The key is to keep the topsoil moist evenly at all times throughout the day, so the weather will also have an impact on your watering schedule. If you do not have time for this, you should install automatic sprinklers.

How to remove Latex paint from your carpet

Step One

Remove as much wet paint as you can by blotting with a clean, white, absorbent cloth; work from the outside in to avoid spreading the stain.

Step Two

Sponge with cool water and blot again (still from the outside in) until you've removed as much paint as you can.

Step Three

Mix one teaspoon mild dishwashing detergent in a cup of lukewarm water.

Step Four

Blot with detergent solution solution, using a clean, white cloth, working from the outside in.

Step Five

Let the area dry completely and vacuum.

Tips & Warnings

• If you've allowed a latex paint stain to dry, contact a professional carpet cleaning service to see if it can remove the stain. You may have to live with it.

How to hang a Drywall on a ceiling

Things You'll Need

• Measuring Tapes
  
• Drywall
• Utility Knives
• Drywall Hammers
• Drywall Jack
• Drywall Screw Gun
  
• Drywall Screws Or Nails
• Safety Glasses
• Stepladders
• Variable-speed Drills With Screwdriver Bit

Step One

Gather your equipment. You'll need a hammer and drywall nails or drywall screws and a drill with a screwdriver bit, not to mention enough drywall to do the job.

Step Two

Rent a drywall jack from your local rental center or drywall supply house. This equipment has a large rack to support the drywall in a flat position while it's positioned and raised with an easy-to-operate cable jack mechanism.

Step Three

Mark the ceiling joists, or rafters as they're commonly called, on the top plate (the two 2-by-4s or 2-by-6s that cap the wall studs) of the wall. This will make it easier to find the joists as you fasten the drywall to them.

Step Four

Measure and cut any light fixture areas from the drywall as needed (see "How to Cut Drywall," under Related eHows).

Step Five

Place a sheet of drywall onto the drywall jack (make sure you always put the drywall on the jack with the finished side facing downward), and lift to the ceiling.

Step Six

Position the drywall sheet in the correct location. Make sure the end of the drywall is in the center of the joist.

Step Seven

Nail around the edges and remove the jack. Nail about 1/2 inch from the outside edge to prevent breaking the edges.

Step Eight

Complete nailing the drywall in place with nails or screws approximately 7 inches apart along each joist. Remember to dimple, or countersink, the nails or screws slightly so they can be hidden with drywall compound. (When using a drywall screw gun, this countersinking action can be adjusted so that it's the same with each screw put in.)

Tips & Warnings

• Always match factory edges and cut edges together when adding the next piece of drywall. Stagger the joints from row to row of drywall.
• After hanging the drywall on the ceiling, you can tackle the walls.
• Even with the drywall jack, this can still be heavy work. Getting help from a friend is a good idea.
• Wear safety glasses to prevent nails, screws or dust from falling in your eyes.

Tips on maintaining your Refrigerator

Inspecting and cleaning a door gasket

Things You'll Need

• Scrub Brush
• Soap
• Dollar Bill
• Cord Caulk
• Replacement Gasket
• Screwdriver, or nut driver and socket

Step One

Inspect the gasket for dirt or debris that could prevent it from sealing. If you find any, remove the large debris, then wash the gasket, using a scrub brush and warm, soapy water.

Step Two

Check the gasket for cracks or tears that can let cold air escape. If you find any, replace the gasket. If the gasket appears to be solid, go on to step 3.

Step Three

Check the seal: Open the door, insert a dollar bill partway and shut the door on the bill. Try to pull out the bill. You should feel some resistance. Repeat the test at several points around each door. If the bill slips out easily, replace the gasket.

Replacing a door gasket

Step One

Remove the old gasket. It is held to the refrigerator by screws and a retainer strip that runs around all four sides of the door. Lift the lip of the gasket so you can see the screws. Loosen but do not remove the screws, using a screwdriver or a nut driver and socket. Pull the gasket from the retainer strip.

Step Two

Buy a replacement gasket--and a package of cord caulk--at an appliance store.

Step Three

Prepare the new gasket for installation: Soak it in warm water to soften it. Then place a 2-inch (5-cm) strip of cord caulk at each corner of the door where the gasket will sit. This will keep the gasket from curling at the corners when it's installed.

Step Four

Install the new gasket: Slip the bead on the back of the gasket under the retainer strip. Tighten the retainer screws. Do the top and the bottom, then the sides. Make sure the gasket is straight and flat when you're done.

Step Five

Close the door and check that the new gasket is touching on all four sides. If it isn't, the door has twisted while the gasket screws were loose, and you'll need to adjust it.

Step Six

To adjust the door, loosen the retainer screws slightly, then grab the door at opposite corners and push or pull to remove the twist. Tighten the screws, then shut the door and recheck alignment. If the door still appears warped, repeat the process.

How to fix various toilet problems

Problems with the Flush Handle

Things You'll Need

• Stiff brush
• Vinegar
• Pliers (needlenose)

Step One

See if there's water in the tank. You may have lost water service to your home or someone may have turned the water off. Restore the water, allow the tank to refill and try again.

Step Two

Clean the mounting nut to free a handle that's sticking. The nut is inside the tank. You may find lime buildup on the nut; if so, clean it with a stiff brush dipped in vinegar.

Step Three

Check the chain that connects to the flush valve. It should have a little slack; you can adjust it by hooking it onto the lift arm in a different place or by removing links with a set of pliers. If the chain isn't connected to both the flush valve and the lift arm, reattach it or buy a new one.

Tips & Warnings

• Don't place anything in the tank to color or clean the water. They can cause a number of problems from corrosion of parts inside the tank to flushing problems.

Clogged Toilets

Things You'll Need

• Plunger
• Toilet auger

Step One

Remove the tank cover and pull up on the ballcock to keep the toilet from overflowing.

Step Two

Plunge the toilet. Place the plunger over the drain and pump it several times. If it seems you've pulled the clog loose, try flushing.

Step Three

Snake the toilet. Use an auger to find the blockage, then turn it to push the end of the auger through it. Continue to turn the auger as you pull the blockage out.

Running Toilets

Step One

Jiggle the handle. If this solves the problem, adjust the chain attached to the handle.

Step Two

Check the ballcock. This is a plastic ball that's attached to a metal arm and floats on the water in the tank. If it's rubbing against the side of the tank or other parts inside in the tank, gently bend the metal arm to change the ballcock's position. (Some newer toilets don't have a ballcock.)

Step Three

Lift the ballcock out of the water. If this stops the water from running, bend the metal arm downward so the ballcock stops the water from rising sooner.

Step Four

Insure that the ballcock is floating. If water has gotten inside and made it sink, you need to buy and install a new one.

Step Five

Check the flush valve. If it's not seating properly, you can bend an arm or turn a nut to change its position. If it's worn out, you'll have to replace the entire mechanism. You can buy a kit to do this if you think you can handle the repair yourself; if not, call a plumber.

Tips & Warnings

• Some newer toilets don't have a ballcock, but don't worry. There's a handnut inside the tank that adjusts the water level.
• An easy way to check a flush valve is to add a few drops of food coloring to the water in the tank. If the water in the bowl becomes colored, you need to replace the valve.

Water on the Floor

Things You'll Need

• Pipe wrench
• Adjustable wrench

Step One

Check the connections. Tighten the bolts that attached the tank to the toilet bowl and the tank to the water supply.

Step Two

Check the weather. If it's humid outside the water may be caused by condensation forming on the outside of the tank. Buy a tank liner, turn off the water to the toilet, drain the tank (flush) and fit the liner to the inside of the tank.

Step Three

Inspect the tank for cracks. If your toilet is fairly new, you can just buy a new tank and have a plumber install it. If your toilet is older, it's best to buy a new toilet.

Step Four

Determine when the water appears. If the toilet leaks constantly, you may need a new one. If it only appears after you flush, the problem is probably the wax ring between the bottom of the toilet and the floor. Either way, you need a plumber.

Noisy Toilets

Step One

Put air back in your pipes. Your household has pockets of air built in to keep them from knocking or banging when the water is turned on and off. It's possible you've lost these air pockets. Turn the water off to the entire house, open every faucet and let them run until dry, close them and turn the water back on.

Step Two

Replace the refill valve.

Step Three

Call a plumber. A toilet that makes splashing sounds has a problem with the inlet valve. A plumber can replace the washers if you don't want to tackle this job yourself.

How to fix a bad Window-tint

Things You'll Need

• Lint-free cleaning towel
• Window cleaner
• New sheet of window tinting
• Tape measure
• Single-edged razor blade
  

Step One

Call a tinting professional for his or her opinion. This will cost nothing, and he or she is going to tell you that there are no solutions except taking off the existing film and starting over.

Step Two

Start at a corner of the tinting. Take a single-edged razor blade and carefully tease up enough of the tinting film to grab with your fingers.

Step Three

Remove the film. Using even pressure, carefully pull the film off the window. Try to get it off the window in one piece.

Step Four

Clean the window with a window cleaner. This is the most important step. Even the smallest particle of debris will cause the film to bubble again.

Step Five

Wipe the window with a cloth towel. Carefully inspect the window for any traces of lint.

Step Six

Measure the window. Take precise measurements of the window and carefully cut a new sheet of tinting.

Step Seven

Apply the tinting film. Carefully apply the new film with a firm, straight edge. Go very slowly to avoid bubbling.

How to fix a leakey faucet

Things You'll Need

• Groove Joint Pliers
• Clean Rags
• Adjustable Wrenches
• Faucet Cartridge
• Washers And Gaskets
• Screwdriver Sets

Step One

Turn off the water supply to the leaky faucet. Water shutoffs are often located under the sink but in older homes there may only be one main water shut off for the entire house, usually located where the water pipe enters (often facing the street).

Step Two

Open the faucet and let any water in the pipes drain out.

Step Three

Put in the sink drain plug or put a towel in the sink bottom. Faucets have small screws and you don't want to lose one down the drain.

Step Four

Remove the faucet handle. Virtually all handles are attached with a screw often hidden under a decorative cap that can be pried off with a small screwdriver.

Step Five

Remove the workings of the faucet and determine what kind of repair is required (see Tips). Once you have identified what kind of faucet you have, see the related eHow for details on repairing your particular faucet.

Tips & Warnings

• If your faucet has a single handle you are dealing with a "washerless faucet". This will have either a cartridge, a ball or a disc mechanism to control the water flow - no washers.
• If you faucet has separate handle for hot and cold water you are likely dealing with a compression faucet. (uses an internal water shut off valve that has a washer on the end to stop leaks). However dual handle faucets can also have disc or cartridge mechanisms.
• The easiest way to replace parts is to open up the faucet and take the interior parts to a plumbing supply or hardware store. Have a knowledgeable salesperson help you find replacement parts.
• When working with chrome and brass fixtures, make sure you protect the surfaces from tools that can scratch and scuff the finish. Use a cloth or put masking tape on wrench jaws to prevent marring the surface.

How to replace an Electrical outlet

Things You'll Need

• Multicolored Pens
• New Electrical Outlets
• Masking Tape
  
• Needle-Nose Pliers
  
• Circuit Tester
  
• Screwdriver Sets

Step One

Turn off the power to the outlet at the fuse box or circuit breakers. Tag the circuit breaker box 'Man at Work' or something similar so no one mistakenly turns the power back on while you're working.

Step Two

Test the outlet with a circuit tester or an electrical appliance to make sure the power is off. Place the tester's probes inside the plug. If the tester's light goes on, recheck the main power and retest until there's no power in the outlet.

Step Three

Unscrew the cover plate and remove it.

Step Four

Unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the wall. It should come out a few inches. Set the screws aside.

Step Five

Using colored pens or tape, mark where each wire was attached to the outlet. The wires and screws will be different colors; note the places where they attach.

Step Six

Loosen the screws holding the wires and remove the outlet.

Step Seven

Take the old outlet with you to a hardware or electrical-supply store. A salesperson can help you find the correct outlet to replace the old one. Keep the old outlet as a guide to installing the new one.

Step Eight

Using the marks on the old outlet as guides, attach the wires to the new outlet. Wrap the wires around the terminals with needle-nose pliers or your fingers.

Step Nine

Tighten the screws around the wires.

Step Ten

Screw the outlet back into the wall.

Step Eleven

Screw the cover plate back on.

Step Twelve

Reactivate the proper circuits at the fuse box and test your work.

Tips & Warnings

• Don't overtighten the cover plate, or you may cause it to crack.
• Working with electrical systems is potentially dangerous. If you're unsure of your abilities or about any aspect of the project, call an electrician.
• Whenever you turn the circuit breaker off or on, use only one hand and look away from the breaker to reduce the risk of injury should the breaker blow.

How to change cabinet hinges

Things You'll Need

• Combination Squares
• Multiuse Screws
• New Cabinet Hinges
• Variable-speed Drills

Step One

Remove cabinet doors.

Step Two

Remove old hinges.

Step Three

Use a combination square to position new hinges at 2 inches from the top and bottom edges.

Step Four

Mark new screw locations.

Step Five

Attach new hinges with screws.

Step Six

Attach cabinet doors to the frames.

Step Seven

Check overlap of openings all around door.

Tips & Warnings

• If the new hinge screw holes match the old holes, move the hinge 1/4 inch so you can put screws into new wood.

How to change your door knob

Step One

Unscrew and remove the trim on both sides of the door. If the trim has no screws, you should pry it off with a flat-head screwdriver.

Step Two

Unscrew the screws that are holding the doorknob in place.

Step Three

Pull on both knobs at the same time and they will come apart. Remove the old doorknob and set it aside.

Step Four

If you want to replace the strike plate, remove it by unscrewing the screws and pulling it from the door frame.

Install the New Doorknob

Step One

Place the new latch into its place and screw into place.

Step Two

Put both doorknobs and trims in place on either side of the door. Make sure that they fit together on the inside of the door and that the holes for the long screws line up.

Step Three

Insert the long screws into the doorknob on both sides. Tighten the screws alternately, first on one side, and then the other.

Step Four

Make sure the screws are screwed in tightly. If the doorknob rattles, the screws must be tightened.

Step Five

Place the new strike plate onto the door frame and screw into place.